Gameplay First play may be determined by a die-roll or another manner of the players' choosing. At the beginning of each turn, the active player rolls the die. That player selects one of their five pawns to move the number of spaces shown on the die.
During the course of a move, the pawn may move in any direction and continue through corners in the path, but it may not double-back along its course and it may not forego any steps. The spaces within the players houses are not counted against the die-roll; the first space counted by each pawn is the space immediately above the house.
A pawn may pass other pawns of any color, but only one pawn may occupy a given space. In the event that a pawn finishes its move by landing on a space occupied by another pawn, the pawn occupying that space is captured. Captured pawns are returned to their respective houses and may rejoin play on their owner's next turn. Unlike pawns, barricade pieces may not be passed. In order for play to progress past a barricade, the barricade must be captured by a pawn.
A player who captures a barricade must relocate the barrier to an unoccupied space on the board. Barricades may not be placed in the four houses or any of the 17 spaces in the bottom-most row. A pawn may not be moved if doing so would cause it either to pass a barricade or to overshoot the final, uppermost space on the board. A player may forego their move if and only if none of their pawns may be moved. Two boards were cut with a jigsaw each to mm long and mm wide.
I then printed off the design i wanted to use to help mark my holes. I found the centers of each square by X-ing them on the paper, taped each paper half to the two wood boards and used a center punch and a rubber mallet to make a mark on the board to let me know where i need to drill the holes.
I used a forstner bit on the drill press to keep a smooth bottom and measured to drill 15mm deep and leaving 4mm of wood under the hole. I would suggest to do a test on a scrap piece first by drilling the hole to the depth you like, painting inside, and painting a dowel piece and ensuring you have the right fit.
After your game pieces and inside of the holes are painted, there should still be roughly 1mm to 2mm of wiggle room for the piece in the hole. I also ensured there was ample room on the back of the board for storage of pieces, as you will see in the next step.
I cut the dowel to make 25mm-high pawn pieces and 35mm-high barricade pieces. I stacked two pieces of scrap MDF wood and drilled 15mm deep for the pawn rig and 25mm deep for the barricade rig; this depth drilled through one piece of wood and partially into the 2nd. I placed the game piece inside, and used an electric sander with 60 grit paper in it, flipped it around and did the same until its height matched the stacked wood. The picture showing this has a painted one, but i would have obviously done this before i painted.
I wanted to have a full storage-solution inside the board itself for all the pieces so decided to leave a little bit of room on the bottom of the board. On the backside, i measured out a gap that didn't interfere with any holes on the other side to store my game pieces.
It was 36mm long, mm wide, and 12mm deep. Using a combination of hole drilling, a router with a straight edge bit, and a chisel, i was able to cut out a hole as deep as my pieces were wide. I ensured all my pieces, including a die would fit into the space. Before painting, give your pieces a good sanding. Dowels are generally smooth to begin with so i gave a light sanding all around and primarily focused on the tops and bottoms using grit sandpaper. I then drilled a bunch of half-deep holes in spare wood and began my painting process.
I painted half a piece, placed it in the half hole in the spare wood, and let it dry which only took about 30 minutes as i was using water-based acrylic paint. I did this for each piece 5 red, 5 blue, 5 green, 5 yellow, 11 white. Once dry, i painted the other half and let it dry. I did this process 3x to ensure proper coating and was happy with the colors. I then used a clear gloss finish on all the pieces to give them a bit of a shine.
A discretion. If i could reverse time and just stain the whole thing first before i did any painting, i would do so.
The reason being is that i had used water-based paint to paint the pieces and the holes, while the stain and polyurethane were oil-based; those two things do not mix very well.
I knew this going in and thought i could outsmart the mixture with some intuition which half-worked. I am describing my instructable on how i actually built my board game, and not necessarily how i should have built it. Using acrylic paint, i painted inside all of the holes. I did this before staining as i figured any stain would hide any paint imperfections that would have shown on the top of the wood due to my shaky hands :. I let the paint dry and then put another coat in there. Once dry, i filled the holes with some home-made playdough; yes, you heard right..
I figured when they harden, that will give me a decent barrier to protect the paint in the holes. This was my first time working with stain and my first time working with Poplar wood so i didn't know what to expect for a finish.
There were other hardwoods available but i just stuck to the cheapest one. I began using wood conditioner. I then stained one side of the wood with a brush and wiped away the excess after 15 minutes with a clean rag.
I conditioned and stained all sides of the wood and let dry. I was surprised with how dark the wood stained on just 15 minutes of stain time, and i was expecting the grain to stand out, which it didn't. Once the stain was dry on all sides, i popped out all the dry playdough.
I then finished with a polyurethane coat. After that had dried, i sanded it lightly with grit sandpaper and added another coat, followed by another light sanding and finally a third coat and sanding. The object of the game is to be the first player to land a ball of their color in the white goal. Each Player chooses a set of 5 pegs placing them on the matching starting positions.
The white barricades are placed on the red spaces on the board. Each player rolls the die in turn, highest roll plays first. All pegs may move forward, backwards and sideways. However they have to keep the same direction during one move. The pegs must be moved by the exact number thrown.
One can pass non-white pegs of the same color or a different color. You may enter as many pegs as you want to the board during the game. All pegs start from the first black dot. If a your peg lands on a space occupied by your opponents peg, your opponents peg returns to its starting position. Barricades are obstacles that may not be passed. Only when a peg lands on a barricade exactly the player whose peg landed on a barricade may place the barricade anywhere except the first row.
Used cleverly, barricades block other player's pegs and protect your own. The game ends when one player land exactly in the white goal. Related Items. Quick Shop. Size 4"x4"x4". Blockade Multi Board - 12 games in 1! The Object of the game is to be the first player to transfer all of his pegs to the opposite triangle.
Moves can be made in any direction either moving one space into an empty slot or jumping over a peg into an empty space. You can do several jumps over one peg at a time in one move. You may jump over your own or your opponents counter.
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